Why Did Your Print Fail? And How to Fix It

Nothing is more frustrating than a failed print in resin 3D printing. Not only you didn't get the print you want, but also you have the punishement of cleaning the vat before starting over again. So how to dignose the reason behind a failed print? How to find the solution to fix it?

1. Where did it fail?

Pinpointing the location of the failure will help you narrow down your diagnosis. Observe the failure to determine if it failed at the bottom layers, transition layers or normal layers?

2. Why did it fail? (and solutions to fix it)

We classified all resin printing failures into 3 categories: hardware issues, printing parameters issues, and file preparation issues.

2.1. Hardware issues

2.1.1. Leveling issues

Leveling your build plate is one of the most important step before starting to print. If your print failed at 1 or 2 corners, but the other corners printed fine, it might because one or 2 sides are not leveled to the rest. Note that printers with automatic leveling could still have leveling issues.

Solution: level your printer and try again.

Failure at one corner suggests leveling issue

2.1.2. Damaged FEP

If you see scratches or other signs of your FEP being worn out, it might cause your prints to fail.

Solution: change your FEP and try again

Worn out FEP could lead to failure

2.2. Printing parameters issues

If the hardware is okay, then something is wrong with the parameters you're using to print the file.

2.2.1. Exposure time too short

When your exposure time is too long, it would only decrease your print quality but won't make your print fail. However, when your exposure time is too short, the layers won't stick together and your print will fail at the weakest points, or even fail completely.

Solution: If the location of the fail is in the normal layers, read our article on "How to calibrate your resin 3D printer".

If the location of the fail is in the bottom layers, read our article on "How to Calibrate for Bottom Exposure Time".

If you're still unsure about which exposure time to use, always choose the longer exposure time, because it will at least print, regardless of quality.

2.2.2. Wrong number of bottom and transition layers

We showed in the paragraph 1 that bottom layers are for the raft, that transition layers are for the supports base, and that normal layer is for the actual model. If you put a lower number of bottom layer or transition layers, it would be possible that you're printing a lower layer with higher layer settings.

Solution: do the math

For models from Aladdin, the raft thickness is always 0.3mm. If your layer thickness settings is 0.05mm, then you need 0.3/0.05=6 bottom layers. If your layer thickness is 0.03mm, then you need 0.3/0.03=10 bottom layers.

For transition layers, an easy rule is to use the same number of transition layers as the bottom layers. So 6 transition layers for 0.05mm layer height, and 10 transition layers for 0.03mm layer height.

Example of models from Aladdin

Number of layers for models from Aladdin using 0.05mm layer height

2.2.3. Speed parameters too high

Another reason for failed print is your speed parameters are too high, especially the lifting speed. Imagine your build plate pulls hard from the FEP instead of pulling gently, pulling too hard can make your print fail.

Solution: Slow down your lifting speed, especially the initial lifting speed

These numbers shouldn't be too high

2.2.4. Resting time too short

When you have a short to no resting time, chances are that the resin doesn't have time to settle evenly on your FEP, thus creating holes and potential failure.

Solution: Increase resting time, especially resting time after retraction (just before print) to at least 2s

These are the minimum resting time we recommend

3.1. File preparation issues

At Aladdin model, our files come fully supported and prepared. However, each printer and resin is different, so if something is wrong with our file preparation, you can reach out to us to improve the file preparation.

3.1.1. Support issues

It's possible that in some critical areas (islands, inner arches, tall parts with small base etc.), more supports or stronger supports are needed. Solution: Add more supports to where the print failed

Islands

Inner arch circled in red

Tall parts with small base

3.1.2. Orientation

You should avoid parts being printed parallel to the build plate, we usually tilt our prints at 30 degrees.

Solution: Tilt your parts from 30 - 45 degrees from the build plate

Tilted parts

3.1.3. Suction cup

Hollowed parts can save resin and decrease the chances of failure because the surface to be printed is smaller. However, internal pressure can build up when a hollowed closed surface has no drain hole to release the pressure.

Solution: add drain holes at the base of the suction cup